Bumping a lock does take some practice, and especially in the case of cheaper locks, it can damage the lock, so don’t use it without a good reason.

Most reputable locksmiths won’t make a bump key for you, but you can sometimes find them online. To make one yourself, you’ll need metalworking tools and some patience.

It may take a few tries to get the timing right, so keep at it until you’re successful.

Spring steel is the best material to use because it doesn’t crack as easily and can be made with a file. You can get these from hacksaw blades. Consider the thickness of the blade because this will restrict the size of the locks that your lock pick will be able to enter. The tension wrench is made in an “L” shape and is used to apply tension to the bottom of the lock. You can make this by getting an Allen key and filing it flat. The pick itself is made with a much shorter leg, like a lowercase “r. ” It’s used to push pins out of the tumbler so it can rotate.

If you’re not entirely certain which direction which way to turn the tension wrench, put it in the lock and turn it one way. Pull out the pick quickly while listening closely to the lock. When you turn in the right direction, you’ll actually hear the pins drop.

Laminated cards tend to work the best. You want a card that is flexible (like a gift card) and one that you don’t mind getting damaged. Sometimes you can damage your credit card enough so it won’t work any longer.

Angle the card downward and situate it behind the bolt of the lock. You want to make sure that the card is perpendicular to the door.

Obviously, this trick will not work if the deadbolt has been set. Deadbolts don’t have a beveled side. Fortunately, it’s impossible to set your deadbolt from outside without your keys.

If your door has a push-button electric unlocking mechanism, you can also slide the straight end of the hanger down from the top of the window instead, and use it like a finger to poke the button inside.

Stand in a solid stance. Squarely face the door with your feet roughly shoulder-width apart, knees slightly bent. If you can, brace your hands or arms against walls, furniture, or anything else that isn’t likely to move when you shove it. Lift your dominant leg at the knee. Lift your knee straight up and let your lower leg be pulled along with it. Keep your foot facing the door. Don’t turn sideways or do anything else fancy. Kick the lock on the door with the bottom of your foot. This type of kick is sometimes called a “snap kick. ” Snap your leg straight out in front of you so that the flat of your foot strikes the door where the locking mechanism is set. It is safer to kick the door. Your feet are designed to absorb a great deal of force, and your shoes act as additional armor. DO NOT hit the door with your shoulder; you’re more likely to dislocate it than you are to open the door. Continue kicking until the lock breaks from the frame. Given enough time, this will work on nearly any wooden door. If you don’t begin to see results within a few minutes at most, it may be that the door or frame is reinforced. Rest and work in alternating periods so that your kicks don’t become weak.

Purchase your manual pile driver. It should be a few feet long, with longish handles on either side. Fill the driver all or partway with cement. Be sure to let the cement dry completely before using. Use a side-tossing motion to drive the ram into the door at the lock mechanism. Swing the ram back across the front of your body with both hands as you stand perpendicular to the door, then lean and strike towards the door with the ram. Most doors should break within a few hits. Bear in mind that the door will in all likelihood be completely ruined and require a replacement.