If a magnet sticks to the lamp, it is not solid brass. [2] X Research source For a foolproof test, scratch a hidden spot on the lamp with a sharp knife. A bright yellow scratch means the lamp is solid brass. A silver scratch means the lamp is zinc or some other metal plated with brass. [3] X Research source To avoid scratching a brass-plated lamp, use a gentle and natural cleaner, preferably with a microfiber cloth.
Disassemble the lamp first to avoid damage to electrical components. Methylene chloride is quite caustic; use as a last resort and follow all safety information on the label. Excellent ventilation, gloves, eye protection, and clothing that covers skin are all important. [5] X Research source
You can use ketchup or lemon juice instead of vinegar for the acid, and baking soda instead of salt for the abrasion. [8] X Research source The more abrasive material you use, the more corrosion will scrub off. Just don’t combine vinegar and baking soda, no matter how often DIY blogs recommend it: all that fizz just means your two useful cleaners are turning into the much less helpful carbon dioxide and water. [9] X Research source Brass polishes can be very harsh, especially when sold as an automotive product. [10] X Research source If you want to be cautious, spread it fairly thinly onto a rag and let dry for 24 hours before applying it. [11] X Research source
Commercial polishes containing ammonia will also speed up tarnishing. However, many polishes also leave a protective film on the surface to make up for this. [13] X Research source
If the brass piece still looks dirty afterward, this could be due to uneven oxidation. You may need to remove some of the patina with a gentle polisher, such as a jeweller’s cloth.
Hog bristle or other natural bristles are recommended for the brush. Wear cotton gloves while handling valuable metal objects. Any grime that you can’t remove may need more specialized substances that are hard for ordinary consumers to access, such as methanol. [15] X Research source
Minimize the amount of fingerprints on the lamp as you work.
Hard, grey eraser[17] X Research source A paste of precipitated chalk and water. [18] X Research source Apply this in a thin film along the grain of the brass. [19] X Research source Jeweller’s cloth (start with the red side then finish with the soft outer side)[20] X Research source
Always wear eye protection when using a buffing wheel. For best results, repeat with new buffs and buffing compounds of ever finer abrasion, such as jeweller’s rouge then blue rouge. [22] X Research source
Sandpaper creates a more even surface, while abrasive pads remove less material but smooth out imperfections rather than removing them entirely. [25] X Research source If using sandpaper, make sure it is designed for wet sanding and soak it in water first—preferably overnight, but for a minimum of 15 minutes. [26] X Research source Foam-backed sandpaper is easier to use against the irregular shapes and curves of the lamp. [27] X Research source
This is not necessary if you used a buffing wheel.
For museum-quality restoration, mix the wax first with an equal amount of a Stoddard solvent product, such as Varsol. Let sit until the liquid evaporates before buffing. This makes it easier to get the wax into every cranny, but it isn’t necessary for pieces meant for home use. [30] X Research source If you can’t find microcrystalline wax, use beeswax or any natural wax. Synthetic waxes are more difficult to remove, making later treatment harder. [31] X Research source
Lacquer is harder to remove than wax. [33] X Research source Test a small area first if you’re not sure whether you’ll like the appearance.
