Additive colors are the result of adding white light to a color against a black background. In this situation, if you add equal parts of red, green and blue you’ll get white. Whenever you use a lighted screen such as the computer screen you use this system. This color system is called RGB or Red, Green, Blue system. Whenever you’re using high exposure or a flash you are adding a white light thus this is an additive color situation. Subtractive colors are the results of what you if illuminate a colored filter from behind with the white light. If you mix all of these colors together in equal parts you get black. It’s the opposite of the additive. This property is most commonly used in mixing colors with any art mediums not involving light. This system is also called the CYMK or Cyan, Yellow, Magenta, Black. If your object is an art project on a sheet of white paper or is surrounded with a lot of white without flash you are in a subtractive setting.

The main white balance settings on most cameras are Daylight (on a sunny day), Cloudy (spread out light softening colors, Incandescent (warm yellowish light ) Fluorescent ( cool bluish white). Halogen (pure white without any colors) Candlelight (warmest light that can appear orange) If your camera doesn’t have some of the settings listed on the options screen already it may be hidden in the “shooting mode” or “scene” options under different names like"romantic", “dusk or dawn”, “snow”. For some cameras, the color temperature setting chart is a series of colored squares or temperatures. Some cameras have smart portrait settings that let you adjust the color temps by skin, eye, make-up or foundation color. Check your product’s manual.

Use this to become familiar with how different degrees of color temperature affects the colors of subjects in photographs. Color temperature refers to how cool (blue) or how warm (red) in the light of the photograph’s setting. Under neutral color temperature, green grass is green as you see it with your own eyes. Move the color temperature to the setting into the reds and the grass turns to brownish color (olive or lime). Move it towards the blue and the green turns bluish (teal or aquamarine). Be careful when selecting the color temperature to make sure the subjects stay their natural colors unless going for an off color effect.

Lowering the saturation can also bring out other next door neighbor colors that the dominating color were canceling out. A red leaf shot under lower saturation will likely reveal nuances of brown, pink and purple. Don’t use high saturation in food pictures. This will result in an unappetizing neon or fluorescent food effect unless the food is brightly colored like candy or Rainbow Sorbet. However there are times when high saturation can help a picture out. If you photograph a cloudy grey sky with peeks of blue increasing the saturation helps the blue stand out more. Use different degrees of vividness to help enhance the atmosphere and feeling of a photograph. Fun, cheerful, festive photos can be enhanced with high saturation. The opposite can be achieved in lower saturation settings for scary, cold, or moody pictures.

However lowering of the exposure can be used to reduce the washing out of colors in pictures when the flash is used. You can also experiment with different flash speeds on your camera depending on your model and type your using. Also, experiment with varying amounts of exposure and make a note of which ones work the best. Too low exposure can be just as bad as too much. Many underexposed photographs are dull, grayed out, and lifeless. When dealing with items with light, whether it’s a firework video or a lit-up skyscraper, keep your exposure low to avoid the “light flare blur”. Also when dealing with sunsets and sky photos lowering the exposure keeps the details of clouds and the landscape clear and pushes the sky nicely into the background. The same goes for any reflective or metallic surfaces. Adjust shooting scenes with the lowest exposure first and adjust the exposure higher to figure out. Flash can also do amazingly strange things for some pictures. Try it in a dark landscape picture and the little minute details of the clouds in the sky become very clear as well as the gradients of brightness in the sky. Low exposure flash pictures with lots of adjusting or experimenting can lead to amazing pictures with sharp detail. Flash can also cause the very common culprits in photography as well. In portraits using the wrong flash or using it incorrectly can cause the dreaded red-eye. Flash can also kill critical details in textural, macro photography as well.

You can use these filters as well as other equipment in many different applications when using the camera. Place them over the flash to color or diffuse the light that comes out of the flash. Put clear filters over the lens itself to see how it affects the colors. There are now new small camera accessory kits and zoom lens that are actually made to fit over the camera lens of an Android smartphone or iPhone. Consider experimenting with these, since they are inexpensive. There are also professional filters that can screw onto the lens of a DSLR camera. If you have a camera without a lens that protrudes, such as a waterproof model, you can attach a 37mm (or any size that fits) lens ring adapter with mounting putty or Command Hook adhesive. This will not work with a zoom lens that is mechanical, as it may break the device.

Cover a portion of the flash bulb with an opaque item which will also affect the shutter speed and aperture (how much light the shutter lets in the camera). It gives the user more control of the degree of brightness of the flash. This creates great detail focus in many shoots and clearer colors. It also works well when shooting items that are shining lights or in front of shining lights. Cover the flash bulb of the camera with any translucent or transparent material and any color. Like glass or plastic. Surround the flash bulb with material that is white or reflective. There are many kinds of lights and tools photographers use to bounce light at an angle that can enhance colors and textures of the object.

Be careful with extremely bright and neon colors. Other terms for these kinds of colors is highly saturated and pure. These colors easily transform themselves into other colors different of which they are viewed with the human eye, in the viewfinder or on the actual photograph. Yellow lemons can turn to green. Bright red poppies turn out orange or pink. Red produces very strong wavelengths that can easily take over a photograph and cause blobs, spots, or other strange phenomena in photography. Bright saturated reds are very tricky even for professionals to photograph accurately. The color of the walls in a room indoors or the surrounding buildings or other things outside can be reflected onto your subject affecting the color. Some darker colors can affect the colour as well. Dark burgundy can become bright reddish purple and not deep and rich. Many items are not just one color. What appears to be bluish green to a naked eye under the magnification of a camera in macro zoom can have extra spots of yellowish green. Almost every leaf is or flower petal is not that pure color but has veins of many different tones, tints, shades, and even other colors. These colors blend with each other and cause different colors. Same goes for trying to photograph a child’s art project. The different stokes of crayon even if it’s the same color can appear more or less intense due to the color of the background paper.

The snow setting can be useful when photographing a landscape loaded white flowers and rocks. The snow setting, as well as the beach setting, is good for when you are in a situation where there is a lot of reflection like a portrait behind a glass building. The sunny white balance setting used indoors can make colors appear natural and very pleasing instead of using the cloudy or indoor settings. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/6/63/Take-Photographs-That-Are-the-Correct-Color-Step-13. jpg/v4-460px-Take-Photographs-That-Are-the-Correct-Color-Step-13. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/6/63/Take-Photographs-That-Are-the-Correct-Color-Step-13. jpg/aid7660212-v4-728px-Take-Photographs-That-Are-the-Correct-Color-Step-13. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">

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Photoscape is a freeware editor that has a lot of color correction features including color temperature and remove color cast. Very lightweight and fast. Also comes with a built-in . RAW to JPG converter. Gimp the popular “Photoshop replacement” also has features that include color correction and enhancement features and can use most Photoshop Plugin “8bf” files. It, however, comes in a new updated version that may or may not work well on many Windows computers and uses lots of memory space on the hard drive. It’s best to use the portable version. Do not use the clone GimpShop because of bugs and risk of viruses. Deep Paint by Right Hemisphere has a freeware version called 2. 0 downloadable from the site named Chip. eu now loadion. com can easily use many Adobe Plugins by just moving the files to the plugin folder. Deep Paint also does many things Photoshop and other similar programs do without needing plugins, actions or scripts. It also uses layers and blending modes and offers easily controllable options. Unlike the others, there are adjustable lighting features. Add a blank layer, fill it with a color and adjust the opacity for endless effects.

AAA Filters site disappeared in 2015 but is still downloadable via other websites. Smart Curves Gives you precise color correction with the use of curves you adjust by moving and adding points and sliding the line up and down.